Mile Marker 79: Hot Springs

One of our many favorite stops or destinations would be a natural hot spring. In this episode, we talk about two more hot springs we've visited and enjoy. We hope you also enjoy.

For information on Downata Hot Springs, click HERE
For information on Orvis Hot Springs, Click HERE
To hear the episode regarding John Wayne with us on the Ordinary Extraordinary Cemetery podcast, Click HERE.

Transcript

Hot Springs

Key: Drifter, Male voice. Gypsie, Female voice

Uplifting rock/western tune plays for 15 seconds, music begins to taper down then:

(Drifter) Welcome to the Rebel At Large Adventure Podcast. I’m Drifter

(Gypsie) And I’m  Gypsie

(Drifter) Talking about Ghost towns,

(Gypsie) Graveyards,

(Drifter) Outlaws, Heroes

(Gypsie) And Ladies of the night.

Music tapers to an end

(Drifter) Howdy folks, Thanks for joining us for yet another episode. Today we are talking about a common destination for us. There are several things that get us going such as a concert, historical event or the like. Something we both enjoy however are Hot Springs. If we find some near by, we make a point to check it out. 

(Gypsie) Today we are going to share with you two of the hot springs we have visited in the past. We always enjoy the chance to get to soak in the hot springs while we are on the road and some of our trips are planned around just being able to relax in the water. If you remember back in episode 21, we talked about Lava Hot Springs in Idaho, the ones we are going to share with you today don’t have a history like Lava but are still worth talking about

(Drifter) The first one we want to share with you is Downata Hot Springs in Southeastern Idaho. The name Downata means down at the hot springs. These hot springs are located about 130 miles north of Salt Lake City Utah and 43 miles south of Pocatello Idaho. Around 1907, Alexander Marshall moved to the area and purchased the land as well as the hot springs from Andrew Morrison. The Marshall family got to work building a swimming pool with changing rooms and a wooden board walk around it. The bottom of the pool was nothing but mud, (Gypsie) I am not so sure I would like that. 

(Gypsie) In the winter of 1929 the family went to work building a gravel road for travelers to get to the hot springs. That same year they also updated the pool by making it 50 by 100 feet and placing cement on the bottom, no more muddy feet. They also updated the dressing rooms and added showers. Eventually an outdoor dance hall was added with Friday night and midnight dances. Entertainment came into town from Malad as well as Salt Lake City. 

(Drifter) In 1939 Downata was sold and the new owners got to work renovating the area once again. They updated the living quarters for the family. During the winter they built a gymnasium, a snack bar, and restored the dance floor. During the spring they planted Chinese elm trees, and pine trees around the area. The property was sold again in 1959 to a family from Salt Lake City. The new owners added a sun deck, a separate section for the kids that included a slide. They also added a pavilion with a fireplace. During the time they owned the property they also started offering swimming classes for roughly 300-400 children a year. That's a lot of kids to teach swimming to. 

(Gypsie) Downata was sold again in 1974 to a family from Washington. They tore down the dance hall and added a game room. But this was not all they did; they added a miniature golf course as well as a gift shop. The family also purchased the Downey Theater in town and operated both of them until they sold everything in 1983. 

(Drifter) The new owners came from Salt Lake City and they made some major changes and improvements to the area. They started with updated changing rooms making them larger with more changing stalls. They had the first green slide built in Idaho as well as the first Black hole slide. They removed the golf course and built a new miniature golf course at the park. Teepees were added to the area for patrons to rent. They built an RV park with bathrooms for those that just needed a place to park for the weekend and enjoy the area. 

(Gypsie) In 1987 the owners sold again to an investment group. The name was changed to Downata Ranch and Recreation. It was a lovely place for youth groups, and family reunions. In 1990 they tore down the entrance building as well as the game room. They added a large family restaurant and snack bar as well as a new reception area. They also added a lifeguard room so those on duty have a place to rest on their breaks. The new owners also removed the mini golf course and replaced it with volleyball courts. 

(Drifter) The new management company continued to make improvements to the building. They added two guest houses that were large enough to accommodate 20 people. They bought snowmobiles in 1995 for guests to rent in the winter. They placed a roof over the top of the slide, and they also updated the floor in the dressing room by making it heated with the hot water from the spring. In 2002 they placed new sidewalks in the front of the building and a new entrance was built making it more handicap accessible. A new water playground was added along with more picnic tables. Updates were made to the camping area as well. They leveled out all the gravel pads for the trailers and added more sites with full trailer hookups. 

(Gypsie) In 2003 the old silver slide was replaced with a new slide. Another slide was added in 2004 replacing the old curly slide. The following year they added four Yurts and placed them were the teepees were. The teepees were moved to the soccer field area and this gave them more places for people to sleep. In 2006 they moved the old bunk house and placed three cabins in its spot. The next year they added three more larger cabins. The larger cabins come with a kitchen, bathroom and a loft. 

(Drifter) In 2008 they made more improvements to the area by making it more ADA friendly. They added wheelchair accessible bathrooms, and a ramp going to the observation deck to the pool. That same year they added a Tranquility room with a sauna, massage room and restrooms. In 2010 the hydro slides were refinished. More power hookups were added to the RV area. They added more fire pits to the camping and cabin areas. New naturally heated bathrooms and showers were added to the picnic area. 

(Gypsie) In 2011 they added another yurt, three more teepees, as well as a new bunk house. A new group area was built with tenting areas that have electricity. They also added a full time massage therapist. To celebrate the new year in 2011 they had the first firework show and it has now become a tradition for them. In 2012 the resort purchased the Hadley farm across the street from them. The farm came with a house that was built in 1904. The house was originally built in Swan Lake Idaho. Around 1950 Jack Hadley moved the house to the Hadley Farms. It was renovated and opened up for guests in May of 2013. 

(Drifter) In the fall of 2013 construction was started on two large soaking pools, as well as a large dining room, dressing rooms, and a new entrance to the reception area. With the two new large pools this allowed for the resort to be open full time. One side of the pools is rather small and designed more as a relaxation area. The other side has two small slides and it is designed more as a family area. Though children are allowed on both sides. The large dragon slide is located behind the main building and has its own pool. The black hole slide is also located over there. 

(Gypsie) When we went to the hot springs we took the motorcycle for just a day trip to relax and get out on the bike. We only hung out in the two main pools and we did not go check out either of the two larger slides. After hanging out in the water for a few hours we stopped at the snack bar area and got us a little treat. The resort does not allow alcohol, you can bring your own water bottle inside but it has to be empty. They also have water to purchase at the snack bar area. It is highly recommended that you drink water while relaxing, even in the cold weather the water is hot and can dehydrate you. 

(Drifter) When we went there a few years back they were in the process of bringing covered wagons to the resort for guests to rent. If you want to go with a large group for the day they have several pavilions that you can rent. If you are interested in camping in the area they have the RV parking area, teepees, yurts, tent camping, the ranch house, cabins, the bunk house, and the hadley house. During the warmer months they have an outdoor movie amphitheater. This place really has it all. They do a lot of activities in the winter as well to try and bring people to the area. They have couples massages, steak dinner nights and a sledding hill. 

(Gypsie) If you are interested in exploring the area you can get on their website to get all the information that you need. You can also book you a stay at several of their lodging options. If you want to use the pavilions you do have to reserve them. When we were there we were told that even if you book a stay at any of their many options you still have to pay to get into the pool, I looked all over the website to see if that has changed, but keep that in mind if you want to stay here you might have to still pay to go swimming. Downta is a very family friendly place and set up for people to book family reunions with plenty of stuff for everyone to do. 

(Drifter) The next place we are going to share with you is not as family friendly, well depending on your family it might be just fine. Located in Ridgway Colorado at an elevation of 10,000 feet lies Orvis Hot Springs. This hot spring is the only clothing optional hot spring that we know of that is maintained as a business and you have to pay to go to it. We know there are several hot springs and swimming locations that you can hike to that are clothing optional but they are nothing like this place. 

(Gypsie) The location of the Hot Springs was originally settled in the mid 1800’s by the Jarvis family. At the time, there were no roads in the area and the family had to be let down by rope to begin their settlement. The family found some difficulty as the tract of land was part of the Ute Indian Reservation. They received an eviction notice, signed by President Grant, which is a document still held by the family. They moved to a barren area at the time, now known as Ouray Colorado. The family was later able to return to it’s original settlement area, which eventually became known as the Orvis Ranch.

(Drifter) Mr. Jarvis passed away in 1879, after which several legal arguments arose as they were technically trespassing. The legal battles continued until 1880 eventually leading to the land being set aside as a public park, officially restored to the public domain in 1884.

(Gypsie) Mr. Jarvis’ daughter, Sarah, had settled with the family and continued to make improvements to the ranch. In 1882 she married Mr. Lewis Orvis. In 1919, plans for a resort were announced in the newspapers stating the intent to build a large swimming pool supplied with warm water from the large hot springs on the ranch, an ice cream parlor and even a moving picture theatre. The Orvis family continued to improve the resort and eventually sold it in 1933. It suffered throughout the years, the roof collapsing at a point then fully burning down in 1961, yet the original chimney still remains. 

(Drifter) In 1986 the property was purchased by Jeff and Andy Kerbel. At the time there were 2 shacks on the property and the pool was full of tractor parts. They began reworking the property into the resort it has become. They recontoured, re-landscaped and reinvented the springs and asked the family if they could rename the resort Orvis Hot Springs. They were also the ones who instituted the clothing optional rule, which continued throughout following owners and is still held today. The business was returned to the Orvis family in 2005 and celebrated it’s 100th year of operation in 2019.

(Gypsie) Orvis is about 6 hours away from Salt Lake, about 5 and a half hours away from Denver, And about 5 minutes south of Ridgway. The town of Ridgway was used to film the movie True Grit. As you walk around the downtown area you will see several signs talking about the location and what part of the film that area was used in. This was one of the last films that John Wayne starred in before he passed away. If you guys want to know more about John Wayne we just recorded an episode with Jennie and Dianne talking about him. Head over to the Ordinary Extraordinary Cemetery Podcast, episode 136, and take a listen to it after you listen to us that is. 

(Drifter) Ridgway has a few hotels you can stay at or you can check out Ouray which is just 12 minutes south of Orvis. But the great thing about Orvis is they have places to stay right there on the site and a soak in the hot springs is included in the stay as well, as you have full access to the hot springs 24 hours a day. They have 7 different outdoor pools with three different indoor pools. The largest pool they have is called the pond. Its temperature ranges from 100 to 106. If the water is too hot in one area then you can just move to a different part of the pool and it will cool down. There are several places to sit and relax in this area but it does tend to be the most crowded. The floor of the pool is covered in very small pebbles and as you walk around you can feel the areas where the hot water is coming in. If you need to warm up even more in the pool you can rest along the edge next to the wood flume that is bringing in the warm water, bonus this spot is a nice place to get a back massage from the water while you relax. 

(Gypsie) Connected to the pond is a small cold pool but if you want a larger cold pool to soak in don't worry they have that as well. The cold pool is only 62 degrees. It is large enough that you can put your entire body in the pool to cool down. Cold soaks may seem like a crazy thing to some people but it has very powerful health benefits. It has been known to improve lung function, it increases chemicals that help with fighting depression, and it also helps the lymphatic system. I am actually in the process of making my own outdoor ice bath so that I can soak in there and then go soak in the hot tub. 

(Drifter) If cold is not your thing and you just want to go and relax while laying in the hot water you can check out the Island pond. Here you will find a pond that is 20 feet long, 8 feet across and only two feet deep. It gives you the ability to lay flat on your back so most of your body is immersed in the water but your face is still out of the water so you can breathe. It is a little on the warmer side but not the hottest pool they have there. The pond is located at the highest point and the water from it is used to warm several of the other pools. They also use the water from here to heat the building, the showers, and the walkways in the winter. 

(Gypsie) If you want to soak in the hottest water they have you will need to find the lobster pot. It averages between 108 to 114 degrees. It's located next to the sauna and cold plunge. They recently built a fence around it to help keep the heat at a more constant temperature. And for the ultimate relaxation they offer Watsu massages. They have a pool specifically set aside for just that. Watsu massage is a term meaning blending water and shiatsu. You can only use this pool if you have signed up to get a massage. 

(Drifter) Inside you will find a resident cat and a  large indoor pool but not as large as the pond. It is only 98 degrees in this pool but it has a cool waterfall feature as well as murals painted on the walls. This pool does require the use of swimsuits from 7 am to 9 pm and it has a separate entrance so it is a little more family friendly if you don’t want your kids seeing naked people.  Inside they also have two private hot tubs. Both of them are around 102 to 110 degrees. Each private tub is built inside a room with a door that can be closed and locked. There is a ledge built around the pool if you want to just soak your feet or there is a seat built into the pool if you want to get all the way inside and soak. These pools are first come first serve and they are cleaned every morning. 

(Gypsie) Like we mentioned before you can stay at Orvis just like you can Downata. So parents listen up. You can take the kids here and let them swim for the day in the large indoor swimming pool where clothing is required and then at night after the kiddos are in bed you can go enjoy the rest of the hot springs without clothes on, if you want! 

(Drifter) The main building of the hot springs has 6 rooms for rent. Each room has a different theme to them and they each offer different things. Some of the rooms have enough beds to sleep 5 while the others have room to sleep 3. They do have one room where smoking is allowed, the rest are non smoking. All of the rooms have a shared community bathroom. We did not stay in any of the rooms when we went so we have no idea how the bathroom situation is. I know in Lava Hot Springs the hotel we stay at has shared bathrooms but they have 4 separate bathrooms so we’ve never had to wait to use the bathroom. Orvis has two shared bathrooms so you’ll probably be just fine. 

(Gypsie) None of the rooms have telephones or televisions in them but they do have wifi so you can bring your laptop with movies on them if you need the television on to sleep. We have a cheap tablet that all we use it for is to download movies and to travel with so we always have something to watch. They do have a policy though that children under three are not allowed to stay in the rooms because they are trying to maintain a quiet environment. As of 2023 the rooms are 209 a night plus tax but the price of the room includes soaking passes for 2 adults. An all day adult pass at the pool is 28 dollars, you can purchase a one hour pass for 24 dollars. Children 4-12 years old are 15 dollars and children 3 and under are free. 

(Drifter) When we went the first time we just made a stop while on the road and only stayed for about an hour, but it sure was nice to have the break in between driving to relax in the hot water. The second time we went was for Gypsie’s birthday weekend. We spent the night there at the campsite. Right next to the property they have a few camping spots set up. They charge 60 dollars per adult, children 4-12 are 15 and children 3 and under are free. Again the price includes all night access to the hot springs. They allow you to sleep in your car, put up a tent, or you can bring your camping trailer or motorhome. They do not have hookups for trailers and quiet hours are from 9pm to 9am so no running generators during the night. They do not have water or bathrooms in the area but the main building is not far and they have bathrooms in there. 

(Gypsie) When you go check in for the night they will give you a gate code that allows you to come and go all night in the hot springs. We spent the night there in October and it got pretty cold. We soaked in the hot springs for several hours and after it had snowed on us for about an hour we figured it would be best to retire for the night. The snow felt wonderful while we were in the hot springs but getting out was no fun at all. The next morning when we got out of the van we were surprised to find over a foot of snow on the roof of the van. The great thing about spending the night there is you get to soak in the hot springs the day you check in as well as the day you check out. So it is well worth it to camp there or get a room there. Another bonus with camping there is you are allowed to have a fire in the designated areas as long as they are allowing fires in the area of Colorado. 

(Drifter) They do have very strict rules that no cameras are allowed to be used anywhere near the hot springs. If they catch you with them they will ask you to leave and you will not get your money back. If two or more people complain about someone being aggressive towards them, rude, or staring they will be asked to leave and will not be allowed back ever. They want to make sure everyone feels comfortable there. 

(Gypsie) The outdoor hot springs are clothing optional. You do not have to get naked to go here but keep in mind other people will be naked. They do not allow people to walk around naked inside the building so if you need to go to the bathroom make sure to wrap up in a towel or robe. If you do go here be respectful, this is a place for peace and relaxation not a place to get drunk and rude. They have full time gardeners on staff that maintains the area and it adds to the peacefulness. We had a great time here and will without a doubt return, maybe next time we will go with our trailer so we don’t have to worry about being cold all night in the van. 

(Drifter) Alrighty folks, I think that wraps up this Hot Spring edition of the Rebel At Large. Are you gracing us with one of your famous dad jokes?

(Gypsie) What is it called when a cowboy dies and comes back to life?

Reintarnation 

(Drifter) Alright then. Thank you all so very much for joining us and supporting the Rebel At Large adventure podcast. As alway’s, if we're active at all, we’re most active on the Instagram (Gypsie) @rebelatlarge. You can find links to our email, patreon, merch store in the show notes and any of our social deals. (Drifter) We’ll talk to ya here in a couple of weeks, (Gypsie) Safe Travels, (Drifter) We’ll see ya down the road.

Begin 30 seconds of the same uplifting Rock/Western tune as the introduction.