Mile Marker 86: Hot Springs of Montana

In this episode, we take you to Montana and visit a couple hot springs, one by the name of Nimrod Hot Springs and another more resort style being Boulder Hot Springs. 

Transcript

Key: Drifter, Male voice. Gypsie, Female voice

Uplifting rock/western tune plays for 15 seconds, music begins to taper down then:

(Drifter) Welcome to the Rebel At Large Adventure Podcast. I’m Drifter

(Gypsie) And I’m  Gypsie

(Drifter) Talking about Ghost towns,

(Gypsie) Graveyards,

(Drifter) Outlaws, Heroes

(Gypsie) And Ladies of the night.

Music tapers to an end

(Drifter) Howdy folks, Thanks for joining us for yet another episode. This will be our second installment detailing more Hot Springs. As we discussed in episode 79, which covered a hot spring in Idaho and Colorado, Hot Springs are high up on our list of favorite places to visit and explore. We find the history fascinating and enjoy taking the rare moment to just relax. The two we cover today are both located in Montana.

(Gypsie) We just returned from a Montana adventure and felt this would be quite fitting. A few years back we went to Missoula Montana to explore the Garnet Ghost town as well as the garden of 1,000 buddhas. As we were driving towards Missoula on I-90 I noticed some people in swimming suits standing on a cliff and it looked like they were getting ready to jump into the most clear blue water I had ever seen. I got on google maps to see if I could see anything on the maps and realized it was called Nimrod Hot Springs. Drifter asked if I wanted to turn around and go check it out. 

(Drifter) Since we had time we figured why not. We had to drive a few miles before we were able to find an exit that we could turn around on. Once we were headed back towards the hot springs we had to pass it and get off another exit so we could go back towards the springs and be on the right side of the highway. We noticed some cars parked on the side of the road and since we had no idea where to park we did what everyone else did. 

(Gypsie) There are no parking signs posted there and you are also on the side of the interstate so it's a little scary. We have since found out that there is a safer and legal place to park. Take exit 138 called Bearmouth then go north to the Drummond Frontage Road. This used to be the old highway before I-90 was built. Turn left on the frontage road and follow that until you see a sign that says fishing access. There is also a concrete barrier there that prevents cars from going any further. 

(Drifter) Once you’ve parked, you will hike the old highway road until it ends. Then you will start to curve right around the mountain and away from the freeway. Be cautious however, you’ll be walking right next to the interstate. Once you are around the mountain you will see a fence, you can either go over the fence or climb over some rocks to go around it. Once you get to that point you will be able to see the lake. From there you just need to follow the trail. The first thing you will come to is the water fall and we will talk about that in a moment. 

(Gypsie) Since we did not know about the parking location when we went, our hike to the hot springs was a much shorter trip. There were a few areas that were a little steep but nothing too difficult. As we were hiking we could hear water in a creek along the trail. Drifter hiked down to take a look at the creak and was surprised to find a car down there. It looked as though the car got stuck and they just left it there. I am not sure what kind of a car it is, all I know it was a blue car. 

(Drifter) Once you get to the top of the hill you are greeted by the most crystal clear water. We stood there for a while watching people swim and trying to see all the fish. The bottom of the springs is covered in green algae and I am sure the fish love it. We did not have convenient access to our swim gear, so we did not get in the water. The temperature is only around 70 degrees so it's a very popular spot for people to come in the summer to cool down. 

(Gypsie) This area is also very popular to not only go swimming but to snorkel and scuba dive. There are several videos online of people diving in the area and we even found one video of someone that dove into an underwater cave there. If you are brave enough to go inside the cave it is located under the rock face, once you are inside the cave there is reported to be an air pocket so you can breathe while in there. 

(Drifter) Since we arrived at the hot springs the wrong way the first thing we saw was the lake but if you go the correct way you will get to see the waterfall first. The waterfall is what provides the lake with fresh crystal clear water. If you were to look at the waterfall from a distance it looks like two waterfalls. The trail leads you to a grove of trees and inside there you get to see the large upper section of the falls. It is beautiful inside there and extremely peaceful. 

(Gypsie) Another fun thing people like to do while they are there is cliff jumping. The water is very deep and people just stand on top of the cliff and jump into the water. People also bring kayaks and paddle boards to explore without having to swim out into the water. The area tends to get busy during June and July when all the college kids come to relax.  

(Drifter) The hot springs are a natural undeveloped spring, you do not have to pay to go there. But there are no bathrooms, no concession stand, and no lifeguard so you will need to bring everything you want with, be aware of your surroundings and swim at your own risk. It's extremely beautiful there with the gorgeous Montana mountains all around you. The interstate is close by so you will hear cars, trucks, and motorcycles going by. Also on the other side of the freeway is the rail lines so from time to time you see a train come by. 

(Gypsie) The hot springs are about a half hour east of Missoula. If you want to explore the area they are open 24/7 but there is nowhere for you to camp next to the springs. The springs are privately owned by the Czorny’s and as long as people remain respectful of the area they will continue to allow people to use the springs. 

(Drifter) In 2020 the owners were outraged by all the trash that was being left there. They would go clean it all up and come back the next day to find it trashed again. They issued a plea on their facebook page to ask everyone to please clean up after themselves or they will have to shut them down. A local scuba diver read the post and he took it upon himself to clean up the area for free. It took him several weekends to clean up all the trash out of the water but with the help of some young local kids they were able to clean it all up. He said he found a lot of broken glass in the water as well as cans. 

(Gypsie) The Czorny family has owned the property since 1978. In an interview he did with the mining journal he said his father immigrated here from Czechoslovakia. When he moved to Montana he got a job working as an anesthesiologist in the town of Missoula. He was accustomed to growing up with bath houses and believed in the healing powers of hot water.  He purchased the property so that he could have a place to enjoy the hot water while relaxing in nature. 

(Drifter) Prior to the family owning the property it was owned by Lawrence P. Byrne. In 1930 he got to work building a large resort called Byrne Resort. It included a 20 x 60 foot thermally heated pool. The pool was blasted out of solid rock and was a major feat for the men to create. Over time he added a store, service station and a dining room that served daily chicken dinners when it first opened. In March of 1939 Mr. Byrne suffered a heart attack while cleaning the pool. He was taken to Drummin where he was able to recover. On December 31, 1944 Lawrence passed away at a hospital in Spokane. His body was brought back to Missoula where he was laid to rest in the Missoula cemetery. According to his obituary he was born on February 13, 1875. He came to the United States as a young man from Ireland. He was survived by his Wife Anna, his two sons Lieutenant Commander William G. Byrne, Lawrence P. Byrne Jr. and two daughters Mrs. Elizabeth Salsbury and Mrs. Eileen Clarke, As well as six grandchildren. 

(Gypsie) His wife Anna continued to operate the business until she passed away in March of 1957. She was living in Seattle at the time of her passing and was laid to rest at Snohomish. She is not with her husband in Missoula and I was not able to find any burial records for her. 

(Drifter) We could not find exactly when the resort closed but by 1960 the newspaper stopped posting ads for the resort. Sources say that when I-90 was built through the area it changed the temperature of the water and less people were coming out to soak in the springs. Today if you got to the Nimrod Hot Springs there is nothing left of the resort and what was once there. It would be really awesome if there were pictures of this place however we have yet to come across any. 

(Gypsie) Prior to the Byrne’s owning the area and running the resort this hillside was home to the rail line. They would bring the trains up and down the mountain side and use the hot water from the springs in the locomotives. It was said that the mineral water from the springs was a good way to clean the engine. Before all this the Native Americans used the land to join tribes together and hold pow wows. They would soak in the warm water believing that it healed the body. And they also believed there was a medicine tree in the area. 

(Drifter) The name Nimrod Hot Springs comes from a town that once existed. (Gypsie) I was unable to find much about the town other than the post office was established in 1915 and closed down in 1962. (Drifter) The town was named after a biblical figure named Nimrod. He was a mighty hunter. The mountain ranges surrounding the town of Nimrod was the ideal location to hunt therefore they felt the name Nimrod was fitting. 

(Gypsie) The next Montana hot spring we’ve visited and want to share with you is the Boulder Hot Springs. It is located a bit off of I-15 about halfway between Butte and Helena. The first building on the site was built in 1863 by James E. Riley. He was a prospector in the area and wanted to provide a place for other miners and ranchers to relax. James built a bathhouse and saloon first. In1881 James expanded the hotel, but this was not enough and the following year he started construction on a new, larger, hotel that could accommodate 50 people. Unfortunately James contracted smallpox and passed away in September and he never lived to see his dream come true. His body is supposedly buried somewhere on the property. 

(Drifter) The hotel was then purchased by Abel C. Quaintance and Cornelius Griswold. The two men completed Jame’s dream and the hotel was completed and ready for guests. In 1890 C.K. Kerrick came to the area from Minneapolis and secured a 10 year lease on the springs. Prior to C.K. taking over the hot springs it was not known as a place for medical needs and not really even a place to come relax and enjoy. C.K understood the medical benefits of the water and wanted to make an enjoyable place for everyone to come relax and take advantage of the hot springs. 

(Gypsie) Under his direction the hotel was expanded once again. Completion of the new addition was in May of 1891. The new addition had the hotel take on a L shape. The base of the hotel was made of stone and the sides were constructed of wood. The outside was covered in white clapboard siding and the roof was made of wood shingles. It was three stories high and built in the Queen Anne style. The northwest corner of the building has a four story bell tower. Each floor had a balcony with a wooden spindle railing. The new addition made it possible for 100 guests to come to the area. He also had a great hall built that was used for parties. Each night a four piece orchestra would entertain the guests. The name of the hotel was then changed to Hotel May after his daughter. 

(Drifter) After C.K’s lease was up on the building the property changed hands several times. Then in 1909 James A. Murray, a Butte millionaire miner purchased the springs. He quickly got to work adding a new addition to the building. It is located to the east of the 1891 building and is connected by a veranda. The new building looks just like the building constructed in 1891 and gave the ability to welcome more guests. Construction was completed in 1910. Exciting news came with the new addition when a long distance telephone line was installed at the hotel. The name of the hotel was changed to Boulder Springs Hotel. 

(Gypsie) James then got to work remodeling the entire hotel. He hired an interior decorator from New York City. They added fancy fresco work in the lobby with polished wood beams of Oregon fir. From the 12 foot ceiling he hung light globes. The light fixtures were made of amber glass and were reportedly made by Tiffany’s. He also remodeled the outside of the building. James visited and eventually moved to California; he was drawn to the Spanish style buildings there. He had the entire building covered in stucco. He added arches and a fountain. The outside of the building looks the same today other than the roof has been replaced with tiles. He invested roughly 200,000 dollars into the hot springs, which is just over $6.75M today. 

(Drifter) Mr. Murray passed away on May 11, 1921. With his passing his nephew took over ownership of the springs. He owned the property until 1940 when it was sold to C.L. Smith, also known as Pappy Smith. He changed the name of the hotel to Diamond S Ranchotel. He changed the springs from a resort to a dude ranch. He offered horse trail rides, and cowboy cookouts. He owned the springs until 1960 when it was sold to Mr. and Mrs. Albert Lane. They owned it until 1965 where it changed hands several more times after that. 

(Gypsie) In January 1978 the building was purchased by Stuart Lewin, an attorney from Great Falls. The resort was in bad shape at this point. Nothing had been done to improve the building since its renovation in 1910. The stucco exterior was crumbling, several windows were covered in plastic, and the roof was failing. The inside was in just as bad shape with several of the rooms closed off, and the pools were in disrepair. The following year the state Building Codes Division came in and shut the hot springs down. They detected unknown minerals in the pool, and the kitchen was said to be unsanitary. They found faulty wiring and the fire exits needed to be updated. 

(Drifter) Lewin felt that in order to put the resort back to its former glory he would need roughly 2.5 million dollars. (Gypsie) Just shy of $12M in today’s monies. (Drifter) He did not have that kind of money and focused on a gradual restoration project. He worked at getting the resort put on the national registry of historical locations. By doing so he hoped to acquire enough money to help him work on restoring the building. He did not get the 2.5 million needed to update the building but he did get 32,000 (Drifter) (just over $150K today). He worked with young local artists to help repair the building to keep the cost down. 

(Gypsie) He had big plans to turn the resort into an affordable health spa. He changed the menu by removing the traditional steak and potatoes with healthy options. He had the meals prepared with little to  no salt and sugar. He also had plans to build green houses so they could start a farm to table meal. Lewin was ahead of his time, this concept would have taken off today. Also he changed the name of the resort back to Boulder Hot Springs and removed the large neon sign on the roof that said Diamond S. 

(Drifter) Stuart ran the springs until February of 1989 when he was forced to close. He had run the hot springs for 11 years and was operating at a loss the entire time. That same year a balloon payment was due to the owners of the property and if he wanted to keep it he would have to pay them. After months of litigation and Stuart having to file for bankruptcy the owners Robert Ryan and Willard Mack took the hot springs back. 

(Gypsie) In February of 1990 Anne Wilson Schaef purchased the hot springs. She is the author of several books such as: Women’s Reality, When Society Becomes an Addict, and Codependence: Misunderstood, Mistreated. She is also a psychologist. Anne had plans of turning the hot springs back into what they once were, healing springs. For years prior, the native americans had been coming to the area to use the waters for its healing powers. Anne believes in that as well and wanted to create a place for those in need to come for help, and relaxation. 

(Drifter) She got to work setting up the hot springs to host her workshops and training sessions. Here she would work with people to overcome addictions to work, sex, relationships, food as well as drugs and alcohol. Anne and her team had a lot of work ahead of them before they could open the resort up as a health spa. The roof was leaking and apparently full of bullet holes. several pipes had burst over the winter, and the heat inside the building was not working. 

(Gypsie) The inside was just as bad. The halls were painted in a color that looked like peanut butter. The rooms were painted in bright blues and greens. The paint had to be scraped off all the walls before they could paint them white. All the wood trim was stripped of paint and stained to show the natural wood grain. The roof was replaced, pipes and wires were replaced and brought up to code. The stucco on the outside of the building was even redone. 

(Drifter) After almost a year of renovations done on the building it was ready to be opened to the public. In June of 1991 the hot springs welcomed back its first guest. The first few weeks it opened up they had roughly 1,200 guests coming from all over the world, places like Australia, Germany, Switzerland, and Austria. Not only did the new guests bring money into the hot springs but the community began to see economic benefits from it as well. Guests would come to the hot springs but want to stay and explore Montana. 

(Gypsie) Over time they have been able to tile the outside plunge area. The bathhouse was renovated, and they even updated the heating system turning it into a thermally heated operation. New water pipes were added inside the building and all the electrical wiring was updated. Each room was decorated in antiques and art that is related to the hotel. 

(Drifter) Today if you want to visit the hotel they offer several workshops focusing on all kinds of wants and needs. They have a full time masseuse on staff as well as yoga and meditation classes. You can just go soak in the water for the day if you desire, and if you want to stay they have several rooms you can book. 

(Gypsie) When we went we wanted to make a trip of it. We booked a room in the hotel and headed north to relax. The hotel has several different styles of room to choose from but the more cost effective rooms do not have private bathrooms they only have a sink in the room. Our room was on the third floor and we had a beautiful view of the area. They also offer rooms that come with breakfast, but if you want breakfast and you are not staying in those rooms you can purchase breakfast. 

(Drifter) We only soaked in the springs outside because the springs inside were closed off for a private event. The pool outside is very large and we had plenty of room to enjoy.  By the time we were ready for dinner the dining room was closed so we headed into town and got us a hamburger. Your stay at the hotel gives you access to the springs but they do close at 8 pm. Also, since the hotel and spa is now functioning as an addiction recovery center they do not allow alcohol on the premises.  So we just kept our drinks in our room and took part in them before going to bed. The resort is beautiful and the surroundings make for a prime location to enjoy nature. (Gypsie) If you are interested in booking a room we will put a link in the show notes. And to the current owners, we wish you the best of luck and hope that you continue to maintain the hotel and keep them open for many years to come. 

(Drifter) Alright, I think that wraps up our Montana Hot Springs. There are actually more however this will do for the time being. Are you doing the dad joke thing?

(Gypsie) Two cowboys are walking along the Oregon trail when they run into another cowboy. The one cowboy asks them what their  names are. One says Wyatt, the other says Terry. The other cowboy starts laughing and says Terry, that's a girl's name. Well Terry didn’t take too kindly to that and he killed that cowboy. As he walked away you know what he said to Wyatt? That cowboy died of dissing Terry. 

(Drifter) Alright then, Thank you all for joining us here and supporting the Rebel At Large adventure podcast. For our constant listeners, you may have noticed our schedule is off a bit. (Gypsie) We’re just living life and rolling with it. If you would like to help us out a bit, share us with someone you think might enjoy what we do. (Drifter) You can leave us a rating and a review on Apple or Spotify, I hear that’s supposed to help spread the word. If you’d like to help put some fuel in our tanks, we have a link to our Patreon below. (Gypsie) You can find links to our social media, email and Merch store below in the show notes.

(Drifter) We’ll talk to ya here in a couple of weeks, (Gypsie) Safe Travels, (Drifter) We’ll see ya down the road.

Begin 30 seconds of the same uplifting Rock/Western tune as the introduction.