Mile Marker 41: Astoria Oregon

Join us as we take a tour through the historic town of Astoria Oregon, taking in the sights, crossing bridges, touring film museums, columns & historic Masonic Lodges.

If you'd like more info on the Oregon Film Museum, click HERE.
To see our video of the Seaport #7 Masonic Lodge, click HERE.

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Email: AbsentiaMedia@gmail.com
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Transcript

Astoria Oregon

Key: Drifter, Male voice. Gypsie, Female voice

Uplifting rock/western tune plays for 15 seconds, music begins to taper down then:

(Drifter) Welcome to the Rebel At Large Adventure Podcast. I’m Drifter

(Gypsie) And I’m  Gypsie

(Drifter) Talking about Ghost towns,

(Gypsie) Graveyards,

(Drifter) Outlaws, Heroes

(Gypsie) And Ladies of the night.

Music tapers to an end

(Drifter)Howdy folks, Thanks for joining us for yet another adventure. We are taking you all the way west, then north where we are stopped by a river nearly 6 miles wide.

(Gypsie)Today we are going to tell you about the oldest American settlement west of the Rocky Mountains. I was actually really surprised to find out that it wasn’t California like I thought it might have been. (Drifter)Astoria Oregon was discovered when Meriwether Lewis and William Clark left Illinois on May 14, 1804. It took them over a year of travel & adventure before they arrived in the area, in December 1805. They set up camp 15 miles north of Seaside Oregon in present day Astoria.  Here the men built Fort Clatsop and camped out there during the winter. The fort was named after one of the native tribes in the area that helped the men explore and learn about the area. The fort housed 32 men, one woman, a baby, and a dog. They used this time to document the area, collect supplies, make salt and leather as well as prepare for the journey back east. After the group left on March 23, 1806, the fort began to deteriorate but a reconstruction of it was completed in 2006 and is open for visitors.

(Gypsie)Prior to Lewis and Clark exploring and living in the area, Captain Robert Gray sailed his ship, known as the Columbia Rediviva, on the Columbia River in May 1792. His ship was the first documented ship to anchor in the river and this was very important when the United States was deliberating with Great Britain which led to the United States owning Oregon. He named the river Columbia’s River after his ship and sketched a map of the rivers mouth.

(Drifter)When Lewis and Clark returned home, they told stories about the overwhelming amount of beavers and supplies in the area, as well as the friendly natives that were willing to help them and trade supplies. John Jacob Astor, (Gypsie)not to be confused with John Jacob Jingle Heimer Schmitt, (Drifter)This John owned and operated the American Fur Company. he heard the stories about the discoveries that Lewis and Clark had made, and he quickly dispatched men to the area to set up a fur trading post. (Gypsie)A little side note, while researching this I found an article about the wealth John had acquired during his life. When he passed away in 1848, he left behind a fortune of 20 million dollars, that’s not 20 million in todays money (Drifter)(that would be over $700M today). (Gypsie)The article went on to say that you can’t really use an inflation calculator to understand how much money that was worth in today’s dollars. (Drifter)To understand that amount of money in today’s dollars, historians compare its value as a portion of gross domestic product. When comparing to its portion of American’s Gross Domestic Product, Astor's fortune is worth the modern equivalent of 121 BILLION dollars. That fortune made him the 14th richest human of all time and the fifth richest American ever.

(Gypsie)Ok so back to Astoria, John’s men arrived in the area in 1810 and established Fort Astoria in April 1811, making this the first permanent United States community on the Pacific coast. In the Spring of 1812, the war between the US and Great Britain nearly destroyed Astor’s company and he was forced to sell Fort Astoria to a British company known as the North West Company. John felt he had no choice but to sell it because the town was so removed from everyone that he felt the American military could not get there to help him fight for it, so rather than go to battle he sold it.  The town was named after John, but he never visited the town before he died.

(Drifter)The fort was renamed to Fort George after King George the third. On December 24, 1814, the Treaty of Ghent was signed, officially ending the war of 1812 between the United States and Great Britain. (Gypsie)Astoria was sold to the Brittan’s and not taken and there were no American’s there to retake possession, (Drifter)so the British continued to operate the post as Fort George for Several more years until it was abandoned in 1818.

(Gypsie)By the mid 1800’s many Americans had moved out west to Astoria and thought the area had been lived in and explored in the early 1800’s however it wasn’t until the 1840s that houses began to go up. People realized the need for lumber and Astoria was not lacking in that department. They chopped down the trees, using them to build houses and shipping them out east.  Not only were they harvesting the trees and trapping beavers for fur they found that the Columbia River had a large supply of Salmon. In 1860 the process of canning was invented; this allowed the salmon to be shipped all over the United States and not spoil. The first cannery was built in Astoria in 1866 and it was a huge success. By the 1880’s the area became the canning capital of the world and had over 40 canneries.

(Drifter)The demand for more salmon and the area not being able to keep up with it brought in fishermen from all over the world. Just to name a few places they came from: Yugoslavia, Italy, Greece, Sweden, Finland and China. The Chinese immigrants first came to work in the canneries in 1872 and they quickly dominated the workforce. By 1905 the workers began to be replaced with Smith Butchering Machines, sometimes called “Iron Chinks.” Each machine could cut, gut, and clean a salmon at a rate comparable to the work of 30 to 40 skilled workers.

(Gypsie)In 1883 Astoria caught on fire at the Clatsop Mill. The mill was open and running at the time, but it had no fire pump, hose, or even buckets. The building was located in the center of town and within an hour it was out of control and spreading eastward. In all the fire destroyed the sawmill, two docks, and all the buildings on Commercial Street between 14th and 17th. The damage totaled 2. Million dollars (Drifter)(just over $55M today). (Gypsie)Looting was a major problem after the fire and a Vigilance Committee was formed in order to stop anyone from stealing anything more. They had a unique way of dealing with these criminals. They dug a grave in the old cemetery then put out a notice that all stolen property was to be returned to city hall. The committee then went out and arrested anyone that was known to be in possession of stolen property. The criminal was then taken to City Hall, given a short trial, found guilty of having stolen property in their possession. They were then given two choices: hanging or whipping. If they defied the committee, they were taken to the graveyard where a rope was put over a tree with a grave waiting for him. If they opted for the whipping, after their punishment they were put on the next boat to Portland. Once the people in town found out what was happening to those caught with stolen property the goods began to show up at city hall. In a short time, there was so much stuff that they had to find storage rooms to place everything.

(Drifter)The people in the town quickly went back to work rebuilding but they still stuck to wood. One thing that did change was Shanghai tunnels were built and trap doors were installed in the floor of taverns.  (Gypsie)We talked about the Shanghai tunnels in episode 22 when we visited them in Portland. (Drifter)When we went to Astoria it was just for a day trip with friends and we did not have time to explore the tunnels. It does look like there are tours available, and they allow you to see a section of the tunnels that has been cleared and safe to enter. (Gypsie)One story I found of the tunnels is about Bridget Grant. She owned a boarding house for seamen and would sell men to Shanghaiers. She even sold her own husband to them to avoid getting a divorce. Her husband eventually did return home, and I can’t imagine how that conversation went between the two of them. While back in Astoria he tripped on a dock and drowned. (Drifter)She sued the city, but it is said that she didn’t get much money from them as she already set a value on her husband’s life.  

(Gypsie)On December 7, 1922, at 2 am the fire alarm was sounded. Water was pumped with a 1921 Stutz Pumper from the river in an attempt to put out the flames, but it was spreading too quickly. The pump is on display today at the Uppertown Firefighters Museum. The fire swept through 32 city blocks burning almost 40 acres and by 6 am more than 200 businesses and rooming houses were destroyed. There was little that could be done to stop the fire, everything was made of wood including the water mains built under the wooden streets. As the flames swept through the city and firefighters tried to put it out the fire continued below the city making it very difficult to stop it. According to an article written by Lisa Penner of the Clatsop County Historical Society, a man named Arne Abrahamson said the fire started accidentally, in the basement of the Thiel Brothers Restaurant and Billiard Parlor between 11th and 12 street when packing material was placed too close to the furnace.

(Drifter)Ironically none of the three churches in the downtown area were burned. Before rebuilding, the city decided to make some changes, starting with widening the streets, adding concrete tunnels for the water and gas lines as well as the electrical lines.  The total damage from the fire was estimated to be 15 million dollars. (Gypsie)(nearly $250M today)

(Gypsie)Travel to Astoria by boat was just as difficult and deadly as traveling by land on foot or horse. In order to get into the Columbia River Bar, this is the area the Columbia River met with the Pacific Ocean, a ship’s captain would have to know what he is doing and where to go to avoid colliding into anything. With over 2,000 ships lost at sea in this area it became known as the graveyard of the sea. The people of Astoria had high hopes that their town would become a large and booming port. Once ships crossed the treacherous bar at the river’s mouth they would just continue to Portland.

(Drifter)The people in Astoria were hoping that when the construction of the rail lines began that it would eventually make its way there. It wasn’t until May 1898 that they were able to complete the line going from Astoria to Globe. Astorians were hoping on the rail line to bring them money for freighting but quickly found out that the people from Portland loved to come and visit the area to cool down in the hot summer days. They established a special weekend service that was known as the “Daddy Train.” This gave a businessman the possibility to leave Portland on Saturday, spend the weekend with the family and be back to work on Monday.

(Gypsie)The timber industry got the most benefit from the new rail line. By 1910 Astoria had 15,000 people living there and its lumber mills were running day and night producing more than 263 million board feet of lumber a year, almost all entirely for export. By the 1990’s after serving Astoria for nearly a century the rail line was no longer in service.

(Drifter)As transportation evolved and more people wanted to get out and explore the world, the town had to get creative on getting people across the river. Bridges were being built around the world, but it was not possible to put in Astoria because it had such a small population. In 1920 Captain Fritz Elfving came up with a brilliant idea to get people across the Columbia when he converted a gravel barge into a car ferry. He was the first person to come up with this idea and he was able to transport over 700 vehicles across the river during the summer. As the demand for him grew he improved his boat and had a 98-foot-wide barge made that could hold 22 cars and 155 passengers. Travel time was about 30 minutes, and the ferry only ran during clear skies and smooth sailing. In 1946 the ferry service was taken over by the State of Oregon.

(Gypsie)For many years the idea of a bridge was in the back of people’s minds. The ferry was slow, unreliable, and dangerous. On August 6, 1962, Oregon’s Governor Mark O. Hatfield turned the first shovel of dirt on the riverbank in Astoria making this the official start to building the Astoria-Megler Bridge. The bridge was completed on August 27, 1966, and spans 4.1 miles from Astoria Oregon across the Columbia River to Point Ellice, Washington. The bridge's main span is 1,232 feet in length making it the longest continuous truss in the nation. It is almost 200 feet above the water and is a little scary to drive across. The bridge is massive and difficult to miss when you are in town. Even if you are not going to visit Washington while you are in Astoria it is worth the drive across.

(Tell about the seagulls when you drive)

(Drifter)The second major bridge in Astoria that we drove on is the New Youngs Bay Bridge, (Gypsie)not to be confused with the Old Youngs Bay Bridge that we did not drive on. (Drifter)Though it is not as spectacular as the Astoria-Megler bridge it is still fun to drive on. This bridge connects Warrenton to Astoria and is 4,209 feet long. When this bridge was built it bypassed the older bridge to the south and realigned the US-101 highway. In the middle of this bridge is a lift, traffic will be stopped periodically on the bridge to allow for boats to continue on the Young river. The few times we drove on the bridge we never had the chance to see the lift in action.

(Gypsie)On December 7, 1941, Pearl Harbor was attacked, with Oregon being so close to Hawaii the people feared they were next. The town folk in Astoria felt that they were in the greatest danger if they were not protected because if Japan could get a ship through to the Columbia they could try and sail down the river and get deeper into the states. Residents in Astoria were ordered to black out their windows at night, block wardens patrolled the neighborhoods, volunteers watched for airplanes, and soldiers and the Coast Guard patrolled offshore waters.

(Drifter)All of this fear and planning was effective because on June 21, 1942, a Japanese submarine fired 17 shells at Fort Stevens near Astoria. Most of the shells landed in a swampy area at the fort's edge, some of them exploded on the beach, and others just buried themselves in the sand. The firing did not damage anything, and the soldiers were ordered not to return fire. This incident made Fort Stevens the only military installation in the continental United States to be fired on since the war of 1812.

(Gypsie)In 1898 the town had a dream to build a tower that would compare to the Eiffel tower in Paris. The dream didn’t really take off until 1911 when Astoria turned 100 years old. It was during the celebration that a sign was placed on Coxcomb Hill reading 1811-1911. A committee was put in charge of collecting money to build the tower and John Astor, a descendant of John Jacob, donated money towards the tower. Momentum to build the tower was very slow, in 1914 the city purchased 30 acres for the park on Coxcomb Hill and by 1917 the only thing done to the area was a clearing was made for the park and a flagpole was installed. The flagpole was not like the flagpoles we see today; it was made from a 90-foot tree with a flag on top. The fire of 1922 in Astoria halted any progress towards the tower because the city felt it was too costly and they needed to focus attention on rebuilding the town.

(Drifter)After the completion of the railroad across America Ralph Budd, president of the Great Northern Railway wanted to build 12 historical markers between St. Paul Minnesota to Astoria. His original thought was to build a giant flagpole with the largest American Flag. He talked to Electus Litchfield, a New York Architect about his idea, and he introduced him to artist Attilio Pusterla. Pusterla had a unique style of painting called sgraffito and the idea changed from a flagpole to a column. They came up with the idea to have Pusterla design and recreate the events in the region’s history from the discovery of the Columbia River to the arrival of the railroad.

(Gypsie)In March 1926 construction began on the column with Litchfield being the Architect. It took them two months to build the column and once it was completed it was ready for Pusterla to come decorate it. Litchfield’s design was based on Trajan’s Column in Rome and the Vendome Columns in Paris. He built it with a staircase inside allowing visitors to climb to the top and stand out on the platform giving them a panoramic view of the Columbia River.

(Drifter)Pusterla did not arrive in Astoria until mid-June because he was still working on the sketches. On July 1 he and his assistants began working on placing the images onto fresh plaster on the column. So, what is sgraffito and how did he do this process to the column one might ask. Well sgraffito is when you would apply a layer of plaster to a wall and while it is still wet you create designs in it and add colors. This started around the 15th century and was popularized in Italy. You can also do this same technique with pottery. Where you would apply a layer of glaze on the wet product, once the glaze is dried you can etch designs in it before you bake it. In order for Pusterla to create his designs in the column they had to make a mobile scaffold that went around the structure. they also had to hang by ropes from the viewing deck. They started the process by laying down a dark base coat, then placing the drawing over the plaster. They would then blow color powders into the holes poked in the outline. After that they would lift the drawing away from the plaster and you could see their outline. They would finish it off by adding lighter coats of plaster to create shadows and outlines. It was said that Pusterla was a perfectionist and if the design did not meet his standards, he would destroy it and start over.

(Gypsie)The plan was to dedicate the column on July 22, 1926, and with the celebrations already lined up it would have been difficult to cancel everything. The process of sgraffito was a tedious process, and they were unable to complete the entire thing for the celebrations. You can find pictures online of the dedication and in them you can see the column only has the first three rows completed. The column was dedicated as the Astoria Column and pays tribute to the early explorers Captain Robert Grey, and Lewis and Clark. On October 29, 1926, three months after the party, the column was finished. The total cost to build it was 26,375 dollars (Drifter)(over $400K today).

(Drifter)The column is very delicate and does not hold up well to the winds and rain that Oregon receives. Within three years the mural was starting to crumble.  The town was able to raise the 5,000 dollars needed to bring Pusterla back to restore the damage and waterproof the mural. Over the next few years, the city used tung oil to preserve and waterproof the column but by 1968 they noticed cracks were starting to develop. By 1976 the city had to close the column to visitors so that they could reinforce it with metal rings and steel rods. In 1995 the Friends of Astoria Column raised 1 million dollars to have Frank Preusser come out and restore the monument once again. Frank was a world-renowned art conservator and worked on projects like restoring the sphinx in Egypt. His crew used historical photos and the original scratch lines to repair the damaged parts. Only 20 percent of the original art remained so it was very difficult and time consuming for them. In 2008 the column was closed again so they could replace the spiral staircase. In 2015 another 1-million-dollar restoration project was done to restore the monument and they have plans to restore it again in another 20 to 30 years.

(Gypsie)We went to visit the column and see it for ourselves. You do have to pay to get into the park, but I feel like it was only 5 dollars for the car. We did not climb the stairs to the top view deck because we were in a time crunch and had to meet someone. So, we are not sure if you do have to pay to walk to the top, but we do know that they have little wooden gliders for sale in the giftshop and when you get to the top you can throw them off. We sat and watched several people throw them down. It was pretty fun to watch them float through the air and because they were up so high it seemed like the planes were in the sky for 10 minutes.

(Drifter)In 1961 another descendent of John Jacob, Lord John Jacob visited Astoria for the city’s sesquicentennial celebrations. He dedicated a memorial located by the column to the Chinook Indians. The memorial is a replica of Chief Comcomly’s burial canoe, it is elevated and facing west. As you walk around the park you can see the Column, and monument to Chief Comcomly, as well as read several stories they have posted through the park. But the best part is the view, here you get to see both bridges we talked about, the Columbia River, Young River, and Washington state just to name a few things. (Gypsie)I can only imagine what the view from up top looks like and what more you would be able to see once you are 600 feet above sea level. (Drifter)If you do plan to climb to the top be prepared as there are 164 steps meaning you would have to take 328 steps in total getting up and down!

(Gypsie)Astoria is a famous place for Hollywood to film at. With over 56 movies made there, once you visit the area for yourself it’s easy to understand why they would choose this area. The very first film made in Astoria was Roaring Timber that was released in 1937. In 1962 the documentary Route 66 was filmed in the area the episode titled One Tiger to a Hill taking place there. It was in 1985 that we feel like the most famous film to ever be filmed in Astoria came out and that is the Goonies! ~Hey you guys!~

If you have not seen this movie then after the podcast you need to go watch it. A few other noteworthy films are Short Circuit, Kindergarten Cop, All the Free Willies, Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles 3, The Ring Two, The Guardian, Into the Wild, and most recently Vireality was filmed there.

(Drifter)The Oregon Film Museum is located at 732 Duane Street and is inside the old Clatsop County Jail. Out front is the black Jeep Cherokee that was used in the filming of the Goonies. Inside the building you get to see three working movie sets from The Goonies, Short Circuit and Come See the Paradise. It is 6 dollars per adult and 2 dollars for the kids. On the Oregon Film Museum website, they have an interactive map that lets you see the locations the movies were filmed at and where the houses and buildings are located. Some of the houses are private residences so if you do want to go see them, please be respectful. We made a quick stop at the museum and they have it set up for you to make a short film if you would like. They have an area where you are driving a car and you can make it look like you are in a police chase, another area is set up like a house with props and sounds to add to the movie. We didn’t spend a lot of time there but if you have kids, they would love this place.

(Gypsie)After the Oregon Film Museum we went and visited Captain George Flavell’s house. This house was used in the filming of the Goonies if I remember correctly, it was when they show the dad working at the museum as a curator. We are going to save this part of our trip for another episode because George is a pretty amazing man, and we think he deserves an episode to himself.

(Gypsie)Like we mentioned before, we didn’t have time to climb the column because we had an appointment to meet up with some locals in Astoria so we could get a behind the scenes tour of the Masonic Lodge. In 1853 Dr. Freeman Farnsworth, John Hunt, and R.M. Moore petitioned the Grand Lodge for permission to start a lodge. In 1854 they were granted a charter as Temple Lodge 7 with Freeman serving as first master and H.B. Summers and Adam Van Dusen as wardens.  The earliest known temple was constructed on the southwest corner of 9th and Commercial. By 1914 the organization had outgrown its building. In 1919 the property on the Northwest corner of 16th and Franklin was purchased to be used to build a new and larger building. Before they could begin the construction, they had to move the house of James and Ester Taylor. Robert Rensselaer Bartlett designed a classic revival building and the men got to work constructing it. Within a few days of its completion, arsonists caused nearly 15,000 dollars in damage to the building (Drifter)(over $240K today). (Gypsie)They had to repair everything before it was finally dedicated on May 3, 1924. The fire destroyed most of the records that were stored inside which is very terrible to think about because inside the building are all kinds of rare and unique artifacts. I couldn’t find if the fire was intentionally started or if the fire to the Masonic lodge was part of the great fire of 1922.

(Drifter)In 1954 they held the 100-year anniversary at the temple.  Anthony Canessa who was the master during the 1922 fire, and Albert Porter who followed him were present and the two of them burned the mortgage on the building together to represent the hard work that was put into the building and the fact that the Masons now own it out right! In 1980 they spent 60,000 dollars to renovate the building but today it needs a lot more work (Gypsie)(Just over $200K). (Drifter)The front of the building is falling apart, and one corner of the façade has completely fallen off leaving an opening for pigeons to live inside. Rust is a major concern as the plaster was placed over the metal frame and now it is starting to push the plaster off the building. In 2017 they spent 20,000 dollars to replace the roof as well as 8,000 dollars to update the heating system.

(Gypsie)In 2018 the leaders of the Historic Preservation program at Clatsop Community College started showing interest in restoring the front columns. They feel that structurally the columns are fine and that they just need to work on returning them to their former aesthetics. The lodge is available to rent for parties, and they have a beautiful ball room that is very large. The high school holds several of its dances there and I think it would be so fun to go there for your homecoming dance.

(Drifter)The worshipful master took us on the tour of the building, and he did not disappoint. We were able to see every square inch of the building and learn about its history and what the Masons have done to help the community out. They still have the original blueprints to the building inside and are hoping that they will someday be able to raise enough money to restore the building and use the blueprints to keep it as original as possible. The entrance to the ball room is magical as you walk through the doorway you are standing on a stage with stairs on both sides. (Gypsie)The flooring is beautiful hardwood and stunning light fixtures hanging from the ceiling. On the backside of the ball room is the kitchen where they cook meals for the fundraising events they do. There is a door next to the stairs that take you to the basement and we were able to explore that area as well, there isn’t much to see there, and the ceiling is awfully short so you do need to duck, or you could hit your head.

(Drifter)Up the spiral staircase is the main ceremonial room, there are also several rooms upstairs that are full of all kinds of unique antiques and outfits. (Gypsie)I could have spent several days up there going through everything and googling what they all are. It was such a special and educational time there and when we left we spent the next few days talking about things we could do to help them if we lived close. (Drifter)The worshipful master that took us on the tour is very young and full of energy. He has a huge passion to help restore the building and bring it back to life. (Gypsie)Regardless that the building is a masonic building I would love to see the city step up and help them fix the building up. (Drifter)It’s such a beautiful piece of history and it would be a shame to see it destroyed.

(Gypsie)Some other things to do and see while you’re in Astoria are the Rogue Ales Public House on Astoria Pier 39. The building is the former Bumble Bee Tuna cannery, and they have a museum there that is free. Inside the museum they show the history of catching fish and the canning processes that was used.  The Rogue Ales restaurant has over 30 ales on tap and Rogue Spirits, all of this is made in Oregon. You can sit there for a meal, a drink, and take in the views of the Columbia River.

(Drifter)The town also has a museum called Columbia River Maritime museum where you have the chance to get up close to the Lightship Columbia that once guided ships to safety at the mouth of the Columbia River, A movie that talks about the history of the river and the dangers people were encountering. You can walk along the bridge of a World War 2 warship. And they also have a 3D movie theater inside. These two places are located along the Astoria Riverwalk. The river walk is 12.8 miles, it gives you the chance to see not only the Columbia River but also views of Youngs Bay and the Astoria-Megler Bridge. Along the river walk is also the Astoria Trolley, right now it shows that it is closed, we are not sure if that is due to Covid or the season, so make sure you check to see if it is running if you are planning on riding the train.

(Gypsie)With several restaurants, bars, hotels, and museums there is so much to do in the small town. Just driving around the neighborhoods is a treat. The old houses and buildings are so beautiful, and it seems like no matter where we were in the town, we had a view of some sort of water or bridge. Unfortunately, while we were there we did not get the chance to stop at the cemetery but we know for certain that we will be back in Astoria and will make sure to stop in the cemetery.

(Drifter)Well, there you have it folks, a visit to the the historic town of Astoria Oregon.

(Drifter)Are you holding onto a dad joke for us?

(Drifter)Alrighty then. We’d like to thank you again for joining us. If you want to stay up to date with whats happening, we are most active on the Instagram(Gypsie)@rebelatlarge. (Drifter)We will have photos of our adventures put up on the website, (Gypsie)rebelatlarge.com where you’ll find links to our other social deals as well as our email.

(Drifter)We’ll talk to ya here in a couple of weeks. (Gypsie)Safe travels, (Drifter)we’ll see ya down the road.

Begin 30 seconds of the same uplifting Rock/Western tune as the introduction.